INDEX Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd See also separate indexes for: Drinking p279 Eating p280 Entertainment p280 Shopping p281 Sights p281 Sleeping p283 Sports & Activities p283 Top Picks p283 A accommodation 215-32, see also Sleeping agencies 218 bookings 216-17 Bubeneč 227-30 costs 216, 217 Dejvice 227-30 Holešovice 227-30 Hradčany 217-18 Karlín 226 longer-term rentals 216 Malá Strana 218-20 Nové Město 222-3 Smíchov 230 Staré Město 220-1 Vinohrady 223-6 Vršovice 223-6 Vyšehrad 222-3 Žižkov 226 activities 210-12, see also individual activities, Sports & Activities air travel 248 getting to/from the airport 249 Albrecht of Wallenstein 81 alcohol, see drinks ambulance 256 animation 41-2 Anniversary of Jan Palach s Death 16 apartments, see accommodation, Sleeping 000 map pages 000 photographs architects Chochol, Josef 49 Dientzenhofer, Kilian 48, 117, 118 Dientzenhofer, Kristof 48 Gehry, Frank 52, 116 Gočár, Josef 51 Kaplický, Jan 52 Loos, Adolf 51, 146 Milunić, Vlado 52 Novotný, Otakar 116 Parler, Peter 47, 64, 101 Plečnik, Jože 63, 64, 124 Rejt, Benedikt 47, 64 Zítek, Josef 114 architecture 45-52 art nouveau 49, 116, 50 baroque 48, 48 communist 51-2 contemporary 52, 52 cubist 49, 51, 73, 102, 123, 12, 49 functionalist 51, 116, 45 Gothic 46-7, 46 neo-gothic revival 48 neoclassical 48-52 Renaissance 47, 47 Romanesque 46-7, 46 sustainability 43-4 art, contemporary 37, 38 art galleries, see National Gallery collection, Sights art nouveau architecture 49, 116, 50 painting 39 sculpture 38 artists, see also Černý, David Bílek, František 73 Dürer, Albrecht 68 Mucha, Alfons 39, 107, 109 Myslbek, Josef Václav 38 Šaloun, Ladislav 38 Saudek, Jan 37 Schiele, Egon 246 Trnka, Jiří 41 arts 31-43, 203-7, see also individual arts, Entertainment Prague Fringe Festival 17 Sperm Festival 17 assassinations, see also defenestrations Heydrich, Reinhard 118, 147, 239 Astronomical Clock 96 ATMs 258 B babysitters 254 Bahnson, Max 193 ballet 203-5, see also Entertainment baroque architecture 48, 48 Barrandov 145-6 bars, see Drinking bathrooms 263 battles Battle of Bílá Hora 24 Battle of Vítkov Hill 129 beer 180-1, 193 brewery tours 190 microbreweries 182-3 beer gardens, see Drinking Bém, Pavel 44-53 Beroun 236 Bethlehem Chapel 104 bicycle travel, see cycling Bílá Hora, see battles, White Mountain black-light theatre 206-7, see also theatre, Entertainment Blanka Tunnel 3, 44, 136 boat travel 249 Český Krumlov 246 tours 259-60 bone church, see Sedlec Ossuary bookings accommodation 216-17 restaurants 162 books, see also literature, writers Bookworld Prague 17 history 20-1 novels 34-5 Břevnov Monastery 146 getting to/from 147 brewery pubs & beer tastings, see beer, Drinking Brewsta 170 bridges, see Sights Brownnosers 142 Bubeneč 134-41, 136-7 accommodation 227-30 drinking 190-4 food 175-7 getting to/from 135 shopping 157 bus travel 249 local buses 250-1 tours 260 business hours 150, 162, 254, see also inside front cover C cafes, see Drinking car travel 249-50 vintage car tours 260 castles, see Sights cathedrals, see Sights cell phones 262 cemeteries, see Sights Černý, David 38, 142 Meet Factory 142, 144 sculptures & installations 81, 83, 88, 95, 113, 133, 137, 139, 142, 9, 12 Český Krumlov 245-7, 246 getting to/from 245 changing money 258-9 Charles IV 23, 119 Charles Bridge 76-7, 82-3, 4, 10 Charles Bridge Museum 100-1 statues 82-3 Charles Square 117 Charles University 117 Charter 77 28 chateaux, see Sights chemists 258 children, travel with 116, 254 theatre 207 INDEX 275
lonelyplanet.com INDEX Christianity 22-3 Church of Our Lady before Týn 92-3 churches, see Sights cinema 39-42, 205, see also directors, Entertainment animation 41-2 Barrandov Studios 145-6 Czech films 40-1 Febiofest 17 film-making in Prague 41, 145-6 New Wave 40 One World 17 classical music 31-2, 203-5, see also Entertainment climate 16, 255 climate change 248 clothing sizes 151 clubs 198-201, see also Entertainment cocktail bars, see Drinking communism architecture 51-2 history 27-8 memorials 85, 113 Museum of Communism 113-14 composers, see also Smetana, Bedřich Dvořák, Antonín 31, 117, 120 Janáček, Leoš 31-2 Mendelssohn, Felix 100 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 103, 144 consulates 255-6 convents, see Sights costs 18, 150, 255 accommodation 216, 217 drinking 182 food 162, 163 courses 255 cubism decorative arts 51 houses 49, 51, 73, 49 lampost 123, 12 Museum of Czech Cubism 102 000 map pages 000 photographs Čurda, Karel 118 customs regulations 255 cycling 210-11, 248-9 bike hire 211 internet resources 211 maps 211 tours 259 Czech language, see language Czech National Revival 25, 119 Czech Please (blog) 170 D dance ballet 203-5 Dance Prague 17 defenestrations 24-5, 64-5, 69, 76, 113, 118 Dejvice 134-41, 136-7 accommodation 227-30 drinking 190-4 food 175-7 getting to/from 135 shopping 157 development, see urban planning & development Dientzenhofer, Kilian 48, 117, 118 directors Forman, Miloš 40 Švankmajer, Jan 42 Svěrák, Jan 41 disabilities, travellers with 263-4 doctors 258 drinking 179-96, see also Drinking Bubeneč 190-4 costs 182 Dejvice 190-4 Holešovice 190-4 Hradčany 183 Karlín 189 Malá Strana 183-4 Nové Město 186 Prague Castle 183 pub etiquette 180 Smíchov 194-6 Staré Město 184-6 Vinohrady 186-9 Vršovice 186-9 Žižkov 189-90 drinks beer 180-1, 182-3, 190, 193 language 270 spirits 182 wine 181-2 driving, see car travel drugstores 258 Dvořák, Antonín 31, 117 tomb 120, 10 E eating, see food economy 30 electricity 255 embassies 255-6 emergencies 256, see also inside front cover emergency rooms 258 language 270 entertainment 197-208, see also Entertainment ticketing 199 environmental issues 43-4, 248 etiquette 160-1, 180 exchange rates, see inside front cover expats 36 F Ferdinand, Archduke Franz 237 festivals, see also religious festivals & events Birthday of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk 16 Bookworld Prague 17 Burning of the Witches 17 Dance Prague 17 Febiofest 17 Festival of Italian Opera 18 Jan Hus Day 17-18 Khamoro 17 Labour Day 17 Masopust 16 One World 17 Prague Food Festival 17 Prague Fringe Festival 17 Prague Spring (festival) 17, 206 Prague Writers Festival 17 Sperm Festival 17 St Matthew Fair 16 Strings of Autumn 18 film, see cinema fire services 256 floods 43, 77, 87, 89 food 159-78, see also Eating blogs 170 bookings 162 Bubeneč 175-7 celebrations 160 costs 162, 163 Dejvice 175-7 etiquette 160-1 Holešovice 175-7 Hradčany 163-4 Karlín 174 language 161, 268-70 Malá Strana 164-6 Nové Město 169-71 opening hours 162 Prague Castle 163-4 Prague Food Festival 17 self-catering 162-3 Smíchov 177-8 smoking in restaurants 160 specialities 161-2 Staré Město 166-8 tipping 162 Vinohrady 171-4 Vršovice 171-4 Vyšehrad 169-71 Žižkov 174 football 212-13 Frederick V 24 functionalist architecture 51, 116, 45 G galleries, see National Gallery collection, Sights gardens, see Sights Garrigue, Tomáš Birthday of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk 16 gates, see Sights gay travellers 198, 256 Gehry, Frank 52, 116 geography 43 Gočár, Josef 51 golf 211-12 Good King Wenceslas, see St Wenceslas Good Soldier Švejk, see Hašek, Jaroslav Gothic architecture 46-7, 46 Gott, Karel 33 Gottwald, Klement 132 276
government 44, 53 gyms 210 H Habsburg empire 24-5 Hanging Out 142 Hašek, Jaroslav 36, 118 Havel, Václav 27, 28, 42 Havelské Město 103-4 Heydrich, Reinhard 118, 147, 239 hiking 210 history 19-30, 94-5 books 20-1 Celts 21-2 Charter 77 28 Christianity 22-3 communism 27-8 Czech independence 26 Czech National Revival 25, 119 defenestrations 24-5, 64-5, 69, 76, 113, 118 Habsburg empire 24-5 Holy Roman Empire 23 Hussite Wars 118 Jewish community 25, 26 modern 29-30 Nazi occupation 26-7, 118 Prague Spring (historic event) 28 Přemysl dynasty 22-3 reformation 22, 23-4 Slavs 22 Thirty Years War 24-5 Velvet Divorce 28 Velvet Revolution 28, 33, 114 WWI 26 WWII 26-7 Hlavní nádraží, see Prague Main Train Station Holešovice 134-41, 136-7 accommodation 227-30 drinking 190-4 food 175-7 getting to/from 135 shopping 157 holidays 16, 256, see also festivals, religious festivals & events Holocaust 26, see also Terezín Horse 113, 142 horse racing 214 hostels, see Sleeping hotels, see Sleeping houses, see Sights Hradčany 68-75, 70-1 accommodation 217-18 drinking 183 food 163-4 getting to/from 68 shopping 151 walking tour 73-5, 74 Hus, Jan 22, 23, 38, 103, 104 Jan Hus Day 17-18 statue 106 Hussite Wars 118 I ice hockey 213-14 internet access 256-7 internet resources 18 cycling 211 Czech Please (blog) 170 news & culture 53 islands, see Sights itineraries 15, 60 J jazz 32-3, 201-2, see also Entertainment Jewish community 25, 26 Jewish interest, see also Sights Holocaust 26 Josefov 97-9 Terezín 239-41, 240 tours 260 Jewish Quarter, see Josefov jogging, see running Josefov 97-9 K Kafka, Franz 35-6, 67, 94-5 Franz Kafka Museum 80-1, 8 grave 129, 8 monument 9 residences 84-5 Kampa 81-2 Karlín 129-33, 130 accommodation 226 drinking 189 food 174 getting to/from 129 Karlštejn 234-6 getting to/from 234 Klaus, Václav 53 Konopiště 237-8 getting to/from 237 Křivoklát 236-7 getting to/from 236 Kun 113, 142 Kundera, Milan 34-5 Kutná Hora 242-5, 243 getting to/from 244 L language 54, 265-71, see also inside front cover Czech tongue-twisters 54 drinking 270 emergencies 270 food 161, 268-70 train travel 252 left luggage 248, 252 legal matters 257 Lennon, John 82-3 lesbian travellers 198, 256 Letná 136, 6 walking tour 139-41, 140 Libuše, Princess 22-3 Lidice 239 literature 34-7, see also books, writers expat authors 36 The Trial 35, 84 The Unbearable Lightness of Being 35 Litoměřice 241-2 Little Quarter, see Malá Strana live music 202-3, 10, see also Entertainment Loos, Adolf 51, 146 M magazines 54, 259 Malá Strana 76-88, 78-9 accommodation 218-20 drinking 183-4 food 164-6 gardens 86-8, 87 getting to/from 77 shopping 151 walking tour 86-8, 87 maps 257-8 cycling 211 marionette theatre 42-3, see also Entertainment Marionette Museum 101 National Marionette Theatre 207 mazes 86 measures, see inside front cover medical services 258 Medvědarium 236 Mělník 238-9 getting to/from 238 memorials, see Sights metric conversions, see inside front cover metro travel 250-1 Metronome 137, 139 Miminka 83, 133, 142, 12 mobile phones 262 monestaries, see Sights money 255, 258-9, see also inside front cover monuments, see Sights motorcycle travel 249-50 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 103 Mozart Museum 144 Mucha, Alfons 39 Mucha Museum 107, 109 Müller, František 146 Mummy 83, 133, 142, 12 Municipal House 49, 102, 5, 50 museums, see Sights music 31-3, see also Entertainment classical 31-2, 203-5 jazz 32-3, 201-2 live 202-3, 10 opera 18, 31-2, 203-5 orchestras 32 Prague Spring (festival) 17, 206 rock & pop 33 Strings of Autumn 18 Myslbek, Josef Václav 38 N Národní divadlo, see National Theatre Národní muzeum, see National Museum National Gallery collection 66, 68, 94-5, 97, 139 National Monument 132 National Museum 48, 115, 204 National Theatre 48, 114 Nazi occupation 26-7, 118 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 277
lonelyplanet.com INDEX neo-gothic revival architecture 48 neoclassical architecture 48-52 Neruda, Jan 76, 120 New Town, see Nové Město New Wave cinema 40 newspapers 53-4, 259 nightlife 197-203, see also Entertainment Nové Město 107-23, 108, 110-11 accommodation 222-3 drinking 186 food 169-71 getting to/from 107 shopping 154-5 O Obecní dům, see Municipal House Old Town, see Staré Město Old Town Hall 95-6 Old Town Square 89-97, 3 opening hours, see business hours opera 18, 31-2, 203-5, see also Entertainment Festival of Italian Opera 18 Opletal, Jan 29 orchestras 32 P painting 38-9 palaces, see Sights Palach, Jan 29, 133 Anniversary of Jan Palach s Death 16 parks, see Sights Parler, Peter 47, 64, 101 Patočka, Jan 146 pensions, see Sleeping Petřín 85-6 pharmacies 258 photography 37 pickpockets 261 Pink Tank 95 planning 16, 60 Plečnik, Jože 63, 64, 124 police 256 politics 29-30, 44, 53 postal services 261 000 map pages 000 photographs Powder Gate 102-3 Prague Castle 61-7, 62, 4 changing of the guard 63 drinking 183 food 163-4 First Courtyard 63 Garden on the Ramparts 67 George Street 67 getting to/from 61 opening hours 61 Palace Gardens beneath Prague Castle 81 Second Courtyard 63-4 St George Square 66-7 Third Courtyard 64-6 tickets 61, 64 tours 61 Prague Main Train Station 109, 112 Prague Spring (festival) 17, 206 Prague Spring (historic event) 28 Pražský hrad, see Prague Castle Přemysl dynasty 22-3 Proudy 81, 142, 9 public holidays 256, see also festivals, religious festivals & events public transport 250-1 road works impact on 251 tickets 251 pubs, see also Drinking etiquette 180 smoking 160 puppet theatre, see marionette theatre, Entertainment Q Quo Vadis 88, 142 R racism 262 radio 261 recycling 43 reformation 22, 23-4 Rejt, Benedikt 47, 64 religious festivals & events, see also festivals Christmas-New Year 18 Easter Monday 17 St Matthew Fair 16 Three Kings Day 16 Renaissance architecture 47, 47 road works Blanka Tunnel 3, 44, 136 disruptions to public transport 251 rock & pop music 33 Roma people 262 Khamoro 17 Romanesque architecture 46-7, 46 Royal Way 100-3 Rudolf II 24, 25 Rudolfinum 99-100, 100, 10 running 212 S scams 262 sculpture 37-8, see also Sights Sedlec Ossuary 243 Seifert, Jaroslav 37, 132 shopping 149-58, see also Shopping Bubeneč 157 clothing sizes 151 Dejvice 157 Holešovice 157 Hradčany 151 Malá Strana 151 Nové Město 154-5 Smíchov 157 Staré Město 151-4 Vinohrady 156 Vršovice 156 skating 212 sleeping 215-32 Smetana, Bedřich 31 grave 120 monument 10 Smetana Hall 205, 11 Smetana Museum 103 Smíchov 142-4, 143 accommodation 230 drinking 194-6 food 177-8 getting to/from 144 shopping 157 smoking 160 soccer, see football spas 210 spirits 182 sports 209-12, see also Sports & Activities spectator sports 212-14 St John of Nepomuk 37 St Nicholas Church 48, 77, 204, 48 St Vitus Cathedral 64, 65-6, 204, 46 St Wenceslas 22-3, 66 statues 82, 83, 113, 122 Staré Město 89-106, 90-1 accommodation 220-1 drinking 184-6 food 166-8 getting to/from 89 shopping 151-4 walking tours 105-6, 105 Staroměstské náměstí, see Old Town Square statues, see Sights Strahov Monastery 69, 72 Streams 142, 9 Střešovice 146 getting to/from 146 swimming 212 synagogues, see Sights T taxes 150 taxis 251-2 telephone services 262 tennis 214 Terezín 239-41, 240 getting to/from 242 The Trial 35, 84 The Unbearable Lightness of Being 35 theatre 42-3, see also black-light theatre, marionette theatre, Entertainment, Sights theft 261-2 Thirty Years War 24-5 tickets entertainment 199 public transport 251 time 263 tipping 182-3 toilets 263 tourist information 263 tours 259-61, see also walking tours boat 259-60 brewery 190 bus 260 cycling 259 Jewish interest 260 278
Klementinum 101 Municipal House 102 Old Town Hall 96 personalised 260 Prague Castle 61 tram 260 vintage car 260 towers, see Sights train travel 252-3 language 252 Petřín Funicular Railway 86 urban development 44 tram travel 250-1 tours 260 trekking, see hiking Troja 145 getting to/from 145 U Unesco World Heritage Sites Český Krumlov 245-7, 246 Kutná Hora 242-5, 243 urban planning & development 3, 44 sustainability 43-4 TV Tower 52, 133, 12 V vacations 16 Václavské náměstí, see Wenceslas Square vegetarian food 166 Velvet Revolution 28, 33, 114 villas, see Sights Vinohrady 124-8, 125, 5 accommodation 223-6 drinking 186-9 food 171-4 getting to/from 124 shopping 156 walking tours 124-8, 127 visas 264 Viselec 142 visual arts, see painting, photography, sculpture Vltava River 43, 6 Vondráčková, Helena 33 Vršovice 124-8, 125 accommodation 223-6 drinking 186-9 food 171-4 getting to/from 124 shopping 156 walking tours 124-8, 127 Vyšehrad 119-21, 108, 120, 5 accommodation 222-3 food 169-71 getting to/from 119 W walking, see hiking walking tours 260-1 Hradčany 73-5, 74 Letná & Stromovka 139-41, 140 Malá Strana Gardens 86-8, 87 Staré Město 105-6, 105 Vinohrady & Vršovice 124-8, 127 Wenceslas Square 121-3, 122 water wheel 88 weather 16-18, 255 websites, see internet resources weights, see inside front cover Wenceslas Square 113, 115 walking tour 121-3, 122 Where Are You Going 88, 142 White Mountain 147 wi-fi access 257 wine 181-2 wine bars, see Drinking work 264 world heritage sites Český Krumlov 245-7, 246 Kutná Hora 242-5, 243 writers, see also Kafka, Franz Bukowski, Charles 189 Čapek, Karel 120 Hašek, Jaroslav 36, 118 Hrabal, Bohumil 35 Jirásek, Alois 116 Klíma, Ivan 35 Kundera, Milan 34-5 Neruda, Jan 76, 120 Prague Writers Festival 17 Seifert, Jaroslav 37, 132 Tyl, Josef Kajetán 103 Weil, Jiří 100 WWII 26-7 Z Žižka, Jan 38, 129, 132 Žižkov 129-33, 130 accommodation 226 drinking 189-90 food 174 getting to/from 129 Žižkov TV Tower 52, 133, 12 DRINKING BARS Back Doors 194 Club Stella 186 Dog s Bollocks 195 Duende 184 Fraktal 190 Friends 184 Hells Bells 195 Klub Újezd 183-4 Kozička 184-5 La Bodega Flamenca 190-1 Popo Café Petl 187 Stromoffka 191 U zavěšenýho kafe 183 Ztracený ráj 191 BEER GARDENS Letenský zámeček 185, 191, 7 Letní bar 185 Občerstvení U okénka 185 Parukářka 185 Petřínské terasy 185 Riegrovy sady 185, 187 BREWERY PUBS & BEER TASTINGS Klášterní pivovar Strahov 182 Novoměstský pivovar 182 Pivovar U Bulovky 182 Pivovarský dům 183 U Fleků 183 U Medvídků 183 CAFES Al Cafetero 187 Alchymista 191 Artesa 191 Bio Oko 191 Blatouch 187 Café Celebrity 187 Café Imperial 188 Café Savoy 188 Caffé Kaaba 187 Dobrá Trafika 187 Erhartova cukrárna 191 Grand Café Orient 188 Kabinet 192 Kafíčko 184 Káva Káva Káva (Smíchov) 195 Káva Káva Káva (Staré Město) 185 Kavárna Alibi 192 Kavárna Evropa 188 Kavárna Lucerna 188 Kavárna Medúza 187-8 Kavárna Obecní dům 188 Kavárna Slavia 188 Kavárna Zanzibar 188 Krásný ztráty 185 Kumbal 192 Literární Kavárna Řetězová 185 Lobkowicz Palace Café 183 Long Tale Café 192 Ouky Douky 192 Ryba na Ruby 188 Sahara Café 189 Těsně vedle Burundi 192 U zeleného čaje 184 Wash Café 195 COCKTAIL BARS Andaluský pes 192 Bar & Books Mánesova 189 Blue Light 184 Bukowski s 189 Čili Bar 185 Postel 192 Scheisse Katze 189 PUBS Akádemie 193 Budvarká 193 Hostinec U Kocoura 184 Klášterní pivnice (Šumavan) 193-4 Lokal Blok 195 Na Slamníku 194 Na Staré Kovárně 194 Na Verandách 195 Pivnice U černého vola 183 Pivovarský klub 189-90 Potrefená husa 194 Sokolovna 189 Svijanský rytíř 194 U Slovanské lípy 190 U sv Antoníćka 194 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 279
lonelyplanet.com INDEX 280 U vystřeleného oka 190, 7 U zlatého tygra 186, 7 U kalicha 118 WINE BARS Al Cafetero 187 Monarch Vinný Sklep 186 Viniční Altán 126, 189 EATING ASIAN Čínská zahrada 175 Ha Noi 174 Hanil 174 Malý Buddha 164 Modrý zub 171 Noi 165 Sakura 176 Sasazu 176 Siam Orchid 171 BAKERIES & DELIS Bakeshop Praha 163 Centrum Delikates 163 Culinaria 163 BELGIAN Les Moules 167 BREAKFAST Best Breakfasts 165 Fraktal 165 Globe Bookstore & Café 165 Káva Káva Káva 165 Kavárna Pavilón 165 Red Hot & Blues 165 CZECH 163 Anděl 178 Chudoba 173 Hanavský pavilón 175 Kolkovna 167 Kuře v Hodinkách 174 Lokál 168 Na Urale 177 Nad Královskou Oborou 177 Pastička 172 Perpetuum 176 Staročeská krčma 176 U Maltézských rytířů 164 U Matěje Kotrby 170 000 map pages 000 photographs U Míkuláše dačíckého 178 U Neklana 171 V zátiší 166 Villa Richter 164 Zlatý klas 178 FRENCH Café de Paris 165-6 Céleste 169 La Crêperie 177 La Provence 167 U bilé krávy 172 Villa Richter 164 GREEK & MEDITERRANEAN Kavala 175 Oliva 169 Rio s Vyšehrad 169 INDIAN & PAKISTANI Beas Vegetarian Dhaba 168 Khajuraho 167 Mailsi 174 Masala 173 INTERNATIONAL Ambiente 172 Artisan 178 Bohemia Bagel 176 Café Savoy 166 Cheers 173 Cukrkávalimonáda 166 Hanavský pavilón 175 Hergetova Cihelna 164 Kampa Park 164 Kuře v Hodinkách 174 Molo 22 176 Mozaika 172 Na Rybárně 170 Na Verandách 178 Restaurace Akropolis 174 Suterén 169-70 Terasa U Zlaté Studně 164 U dědka 173 U malé velryby 165 U Maltézských rytířů 164 V zátiší 166 Vikárka 163-4 Zahrada v Opeře 169 ITALIAN Allegro 166 Ambiente Pasta Fresca 167 Ambiente Pizza Nuova 167 Aromi 172 Da Emanuel 175 Il Gattopardo 175 Kogo 169 Mirellie 175 Osteria Da Clara 172 Pizzeria Grosseto (Dejvice) 177 Pizzeria Grosseto (Vinohrady) 173-4 Zahrada v Opeře 169 MEXICAN Amigos 172 Cantina 165 Las Adelitas 173 MIDDLE EASTERN Kabul 168 Karavanseráj 171 PIZZA Capua 176 Corte di Angelo 178 Lucky Luciano 177 Pizzeria Corleone 178 Pizzeria Grosseto (Dejvice) 177 Pizzeria Grosseto (Vinohrady) 173-4 Pizzeria Kmotra 171 SUPERMARKETS & MARKETS Albert Supermarket 163 Open-Air Market 163 Tesco 163 Vacek Bio-Market 163 SOUTH AMERICAN Casa Argentina 166 VEGETARIAN Beas Vegetarian Dhaba 168 Café FX 173 Country Life (Nové Město) 171 Country Life (Staré Město) 168 Lehká Hlava 168 Maitrea 168 WINE SHOPS Cellarius 163 ENTERTAINMENT BALLET Estates Theatre 204, 2 National Theatre 205 BLACK-LIGHT THEATRES Image Theatre 206 Reduta Theatre 207 Ta Fantastika 207 CINEMA Bio Oko 205 Kino Aero 205 Kino Světozor 205 Palace Cinemas 205 CLASSICAL MUSIC Basilica of St George 204, 46 Bethlehem Chapel 204 Chapel of Mirrors 204, 11 Church of St Francis 204 Church of St Nicholas 204 Convent of St Agnes 204 Dvořák Hall 203 Dvořák Museum 203 Liechtenstein Palace 204 Smetana Hall 205, 11 St Nicholas Church 204, 48 St Vitus Cathedral 204, 46 Strahov Monastery 204 CLUBS Bunkr Parukářka 198, 12 Cross Club 198-9 Futurum 199 Klub 007 Strahov 199 Le Clan 199 Mecca 199-200 Radost FX 200 Roxy 200 SaSaZu 200 Sedm Vlků 200 Techtle Mechtle (Bomba Bar) 200 Termix 200 Wakata 200 XT3 201 JAZZ CLUBS Agharta Jazz Centrum 201 Blues Sklep 201 Bunkr Klub 202 Jazzdock 201
Reduta Jazz Club 201 U malého Glena 201 USP Jazz Lounge 201-2 LIVE MUSIC Batalion 202 La Fabrika 202 Lucerna Music Bar 202 Malostranská Beseda 202 Palác Akropolis 202 Rock Café 203 Vagon 203 OPERA Estates Theatre 204, 2 National Theatre 205 Prague State Opera 205 PUPPET & MARIONETTE THEATRE Minor Theatre 207 National Marionette Theatre 207 Spejbl & Hurvínek Theatre 207 THEATRE Alfred ve Dvoře 206 Archa Theatre 206 Celetná Theatre 206 Estates Theatre 204 Laterna Magika 206 National Theatre 205 Švandovo Divadlo na Smíchově 207 Theatre on the Balustrade 207 SHOPPING ANTIQUES Antikvita 157 Antique Music Instruments 151 Art Deco Galerie 151 Bric A Brac 152 Vetešnictvi 151 ARTS & CRAFTS Art Décoratif 152 Galerie České Plastiky 154 Keramika v Ungeltu 152 Kubista 152 Obchod s uměním 156 Qubus 152 BOOKS Anagram 152 Big Ben 152 Globe Bookstore & Café 154 Kanzelsberger 154 Kiwi 154 Ouky Douky 192 Palác Knih Neo Luxor 154 Shakespeare & Sons (Malá Strana) 151 Shakespeare & Sons (Vršovice) 156 FASHION Baťa 155 Bohème 152-3 Helena Fejková Gallery 154 Klara Nademlýnská 153 Pavla & Olga 151 TEG 153 FOOD & DRINK Pivní Galerie 157 Pražská Tržnice 157 GIFTS Botanicus 152 Manufactura Abram Kelly 154 HOMEWARES Arzenal 153 Dům porcelánu 156 Le Patio Lifestyle 153 Modernista 153 Moser 155 Orientální koberce Palácka 156 JEWELLERY Belda Jewellery 155 Frey Wille 153 Granát Turnov 153 MAPS Kanzelsberger 154 Kiwi 154 Mapis 157 MUSIC Bazar 155 Bontonland 155 Karel Vávra 156 Maximum Underground 154 Talacko 154 PHOTOGRAPHY Foto Škoda 155 Jan Pazdera 155 SHOPPING CENTRES & MARKETS Nový Smíchov 157 Palác Flóra 156 Pražská Tržnice 157 Vinohradský Pavilon 156 TOYS & GIFTS Houpací Kůň 151 Zerba 155 SIGHTS BRIDGES & GATES Brick Gate & Casemates 119 Čertovka Bridge 88 Charles Bridge 76-7, 82-3, 4, 10 Písek Gate 73 Powder Bridge 73 Powder Gate 102-3 BUILDINGS & STRUCTURES Astronomical Clock 96 Barrandov 145-6 Baťa Shoe Store 115 Czech Parliament House 80 Dancing Building 52, 116, 52 Grand Hotel Evropa 115 Hotel Crowne Plaza 135 Karolinum 103-4 Klementinum 101 Kotva 51-2 Křižík s Fountain 135 Lindt Building 115 Lucerna Palace 113 Máj Building 51-2 Melantrich Building 115 Mirror Maze 86 Municipal House 49, 102, 5, 50 New City Hall 106 New Town Hall 118 Old Town Hall 95-6 Prague Main Train Station 109, 112 Rudolfinum 99-100, 10 U kalicha 118 Wiehl House 115 CASTLES & PALACES Adria Palace 114 Archbishop s Palace 68 Černín Palace 68-9 Český Krumlov Castle 245 Goltz-Kinský Palace 94-5 Karlštejn Castle 234-6 Koruna Palace 115 Křivoklát Castle 236 Lobkowicz Palace 67 Lucerna Palace 113 Mistodržitelský Summer Palace 141 Old Royal Palace 64-5 Peček Palace 115 Prague Castle 61-7, 62, 4 Schwarzenberg Palace 68 Star Summer Palace 147 Sternberg Palace 68 Summer Palace 47, 64 Terezín 239-41 Troja Chateau 145 Veletržní Palace 139, 8, 45 Vyšehrad Citadel 121, 5 Wallenstein Palace 81-2 CEMETERIES & OSSUARIES Jewish Cemetery 129 Olšany Cemetery 132-3 Sedlec Ossuary 243 Vyšehrad Cemetery 120-1 CHATEAUX Konopiště Chateau 237 Mělník Chateau 238 CHURCHES & CATHEDRALS Basilica of St George 46, 66, 46 Basilica of St Margaret 146 Bethlehem Chapel 104 Cathedral of St Barbara 244 Chapel of Mirrors 101, 11 Chapel of Sts Cosmas & Damian 104 Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary 101 Church of Our Lady 118 Church of Our Lady before Týn 92-3 Church of Our Lady of the Snows 113 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 281
lonelyplanet.com INDEX 282 Church of Our Lady of Unceasing Succour 76 Church of St Bartholomew 104 Church of St Clement 101 Church of St Francis Seraphinus 100 Church of St Gall 103 Church of St Giles 104 Church of St James 93-4 Church of St John at the Laundry 82 Church of St John Nepomuk 73 Church of St John of Nepomuk on the Rock 118 Church of St Martin in the Wall 103 Church of St Nicholas 94 Church of St Stephen 117 Church of St Wenceslas in Zderaz 117 Church of Sts Cyril & Methodius 117 Church of Sts Peter & Paul 238 (Mělník) Church of Sts Peter & Paul 119 (Vyšehrad) Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary & Charlemagne 117 Church of the Holy Saviour 101 Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord 124 Loreta 69 Rotunda of St Longinus 117 Rotunda of St Martin 120 Rotunda of the Holy Cross 105 St Nicholas Church 48, 77, 48 St Vitus Cathedral 64, 65-6, 46 CONVENTS & MONASTERIES Břevnov Monastery 146 Convent of St Agnes 97 Convent of St George 66 Emmaus Monastery 117-18 Strahov Monastery 69, 72 000 map pages 000 photographs HOUSES & VILLAS Bílek Villa 73 Bretfeld Palace 76 cubist houses 49, 51, 73, 49 Faust House 117 Franz Kafka s residences 84-5 House at the Golden Ring 95 House at the Stone Bell 95 House of the Black Madonna 102, 105 House of the Golden Horseshoe 76 House of the Hlahol Choir 116 House of the Two Suns 76 Vila Amerika 117 Villa Müller 51, 146 ISLANDS Children s Island 82 Emperor s Island 141 Kampa 81-2 Marksmen s Island 82 Slav Island 116 JEWISH SITES & SYNAGOGUES Ghetto Museum 241 High Synagogue 99 Jewish Cemetery 129 Jewish Town Hall 99 Jubilee Synagogue 107 Klaus Synagogue 99 Maisel Synagogue 99 Old Jewish Cemetery 99 Old-New Synagogue 98-9 Pinkas Synagogue 99 Prague Jewish Museum 98-9, 5 Spanish Synagogue 99 Terezín 239, 240 MEMORIALS & MONUMENTS František Palacký Memorial 116 Franz Kafka s grave 129, 8 Franz Kafka monument 9 Jan Hus 106 John Lennon Wall 82-3 Kobylisy Anti-Fascist Resistance Memorial 145 Memorial to the Victims of Communism (Malá Strana) 85 Memorial to the Victims of Communism (Wenceslas Square) 113 National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror 118 National Memorial to the Victims of Post-Heydrich Terror 117 National Monument 132 Smetana monument 10 St Wenceslas 82, 83, 113, 122 V Holešovičkách 147 White Mountain 147 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Army Museum 129 Charles Bridge Museum 100-1 Convent of St Agnes 97 Czech Museum of Fine Arts 101 Czech Museum of Music 84 DOX Centre for Contemporary Art 135 Dvořák Museum 117 Ecotechnical Museum 135, 12 Egon Schiele Centrum 246 Franz Kafka Museum 80-1, 8 Futura Gallery 142 Galerie Rudolfinum 99 Goltz-Kinský Palace 94-5 Gothic Cellar 119 House at the Golden Ring 95 House at the Stone Bell 95 Kampa Museum 83 Karlín Studios 129 Kbely Aircraft Museum 145 Lapidárium 135-6 Marionette Museum 101 Meet Factory 142, 144 Miniature Museum 69 Mozart Museum 144 Mucha Museum 107, 109 Musaion 86 Museum Montanelli 77 Museum of Communism 113-14 Museum of Czech Cubism 102 Museum of Decorative Arts 97-8 Museum of the Infant Jesus of Prague 84 Muzeum Lidice 239 Náprstek Museum 104 National Museum 48, 115 National Technical Museum 137-8 Postal Museum 109 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 63 Prague City Museum 109 Prague Jewish Museum 98-9, 5 Public Transport Museum 146 Schwarzenberg Palace 68 Smetana Museum 103 Štefánik Observatory 86 Sternberg Palace 68 Story of Prague Castle 66 Strahov Library 69, 72 Strahov Picture Gallery 72 Toy Museum 67 Troja Chateau 145 Veletržní Palace 139, 8, 45 PARKS & GARDENS Charles University Botanical Garden 117 Divoká Šárka 134 Franciscan Garden 123 Garden on the Ramparts 67 Havlíčkovy sady 126 Letná Gardens 136, 139-41, 6 Letná terása 137 Malá Strana Gardens 86-8, 87 Palace Gardens beneath Prague Castle 81 Riegrovy sady 124 Royal Garden 63-4, 47 Stromovka 138, 139-41 Vojan Gardens 87 Vrtbov Garden 85 Wallenstein Garden 81, 6 PLANETARIUMS Prague Planetarium 138
SQUARES & PLAZAS Charles Square 117 Hradčany Square 68 Little Square 100, 106 Loreta Square 68-9 Na Kampě 87 Old Town Square 89-97, 3 Peace Square 126 Republic Square 105 St George Square 66-7 Týn Courtyard 96-7 Wenceslas Square 113, 115 STATUES & SCULPTURES Charles Bridge area 82-3 David Černý works 81, 83, 88, 95, 113, 133, 137, 139, 142, 9, 12 Infant Jesus of Prague 84 Jan Hus 106 Lapidárium 135-6 St Wenceslas 82, 83, 113, 122 Vyšehrad Gardens 121 STREETS & LANES Bartolomějská 104 Celetná 100 George Street 67 Golden Lane 67 Na Příkopě 114 Národní třída 114 Nerudova 76 Nový Svět 74 THEATRES Estates Theatre 103, 2 Kolowrat Theatre 103 National Theatre 48, 114 TOWERS Daliborka 67 Jindřišská Tower 107 Malá Strana Bridge Tower 77 Old Town Bridge Tower 101 Petřín Lookout Tower 75, 86 Petrská Waterworks Tower 109 Powder Tower 66-7 Žižkov TV Tower 52, 133, 12 TRANSPORT Petřín Funicular Railway 86 ZOOS & AQUARIUMS Mořský svět 137 Prague Zoo 145 SLEEPING APARTMENTS Castle Steps 219 Grand Hotel Praha 220 Hunger Wall Residence 219 Orion 224 Pension Arco 226 Residence Karolina 220 Suitehome residence 222 BOUTIQUE HOTELS Absolutum Hotel 227 Ametyst 224 Anděl s Hotel Prague 230 Angelo Hotel 230 Arkada 225 Art Hotel 228-9 Hotel Alwyn 226 Hotel Aria 218 Hotel Josef 221 Hotel Neruda 219 Hotel Sieber 224 Hotel Villa Schwaiger 229 Hotel Yasmin 222 Icon Hotel 222 Mandarin Oriental 218 Perla Hotel 221 HOSTELS A&O Hostel 230 Arpacay Hostel 231 Clown & Bard Hostel 226 Czech Inn 225 Hostel Boathouse 230 Hostel Elf 226 Hostel U Melounu 223 Hotel Leon 228 Miss Sophie s 223 Old Prague Hostel 221 Plus Prague Hostel 228 Sir Toby s Hostel 229-30 HOTELS Admirál Botel 231 Amedia Hotel Theatrino 226 Czech Inn 225 Design Hotel Sax 220 Domus Henrici 217 Expo Prague 227 Golden Well Hotel 219 Hotel 16 U sv Kateřiny 223 Hotel Anna 225 Hotel Antik 221 Hotel Arbes-Mepro 231 Hotel Belvedere 228 Hotel Chodská 224 Hotel Crowne Plaza 229 Hotel Denisa 228 Hotel Extol Inn 228 Hotel Julian 231 Hotel Leon 228 Hotel Letná 229 Hotel Luník 224 Hotel Monastery 218 Hotel Praha 227 Hotel U Krále Karla 217 Hotel U Šuterů 223 Hotel Union 222 IBIS Praha Malá Strana 231 Le Palais Hotel 223-4 Plaza Alta Hotel 229 Radisson Blu Alcron Hotel 222 Romantik Hotel U Raka 217 Savic Hotel 220 Splendid 227 PENSIONS Charles Bridge B&B 219-20 Hotel Anna 225 Hotel Chodská 224 Hotel Denisa 228 Hotel Letná 229 Hotel U Medvídků 220 Pension Arco 226 Pension Beetle 225 Pension Dientzenhofer 219 Penzion Mánes 225 U Zeleného Věnce 221 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES FOOTBALL Generali Aréna 213 Synot Tip Aréna 213 GOLF Golf & Country Club 211 Golf Club Praha 211 Karlštejn Golf Course 212 GYMS & SPAS Cybex Health Club & Spa 210 Holmes Place 210 HORSE RACING Prague Racecourse 214 ICE HOCKEY O2 Arena 213 Štvanice Stadium 212 Tesla Aréna 213-14 SKATING Půjčovna bruslí Miami 212 Štvanice Stadium 212 SWIMMING Divoká Šárka 212 Podolí Swimming Pool 212 TENNIS Czech Lawn Tennis Club 214 TOP PICKS accommodation 215 architecture 50, 115 bars & pubs 179 bookshops 155 designer boutiques 153 entertainment 197 for children 116 free sights 69 gay & lesbian nightlife 198 restaurants 159 shopping 149 sights 55 sports & activities 209 vegetarian restaurants 166 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 283
MAP LEGEND ROUTES TRANSPORT HYDROGRAPHY BOUNDARIES AREA FEATURES Airport Area of Interest Building Campus Cemetery, Christian Cemetery, Other Forest POPULATION CAPITAL (NATIONAL) Large City Small City SYMBOLS Information Bank, ATM Embassy/Consulate Hospital, Medical Information Internet Facilities Police Station Post Office, GPO Telephone Toilets Sights Castle, Fortress Christian Islamic Jewish Monument Museum, Gallery Point of Interest Ruin Winery, Vineyard Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Under Construction One-Way Street Ferry Metro Bus Route River, Creek Swamp International State, Provincial Disputed Shopping Eating Entertainment Drinking Arts Shopping Eating Entertainment Drinking Cafe Arts Sports & Activities Pool Mall/Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Walking Trail Walking Path Track Rail Rail (Underground) Tram Cable Car, Funicular Canal Water Regional, Suburb Ancient Wall Cliff Land Mall Market Park Reservation Sports Urban CAPITAL (STATE) Medium City Town, Village Sleeping Sleeping Camping Transport Airport, Airfield Border Crossing Bus Station Cycling, Bicycle Path General Transport Parking Area Petrol Station Taxi Rank Geographic Hazard Lighthouse Lookout Mountain, Volcano National Park River Flow Shelter, Hut Waterfall Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Australia (Head Office) Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011, %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607, %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 UK 2nd f l, 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT, %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 Contact talk2us@lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com/contact Lonely Planet 2010 Photographs as listed (p272) 2010 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Printed through Colorcraft Ltd, Hong Kong Printed in China Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 284
QUICK REFERENCE HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Shopping, Eating, Drinking and Sleeping reviews are organised by neighbourhood. All items reviewed in the text appear on maps. % telephone h opening hours p parking available n nonsmoking rooms/ areas available i internet available W wi-fi access s swimming pool w wheelchair access v good vegetarian selection c child-friendly g bus m metro j tram, funicular apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms EXCHANGE RATES Prices in this book are quoted in Czech crowns (Koruna česká). 1 Czech crown (Kč) = 100 heller (h). For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. Australia A$1 18.03Kč Canada C$1 20.40Kč Euro zone 1 25.73Kč Japan 100 22.96Kč New Zealand NZ$1 14.58Kč Singapore S$1 15.01Kč UK UK 1 30.81Kč USA US$1 20.96Kč TIPPING Bars Restaurants Round up the bill to the next 10Kč (or the next 20Kč if it s over 200Kč). 10% for good service TELEPHONE Country code %420 Directory inquiries (domestic/international) %1180/1181 EU-wide emergency hotline (ambulance, fire, police) %112 International dialling code %00 + country code Prague information service (PIS) %12444 ÚAMK (Central Automobile & Motorcycle Club) %1230 SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION BUSINESS HOURS Banks 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Bars 11am-midnight Restaurants 10am-11pm Shops 8am or 8.30am-5pm or 7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon or 1pm Sat; department stores close 8pm Mon-Fri, around 6pm Sat & Sun Exceptions are noted in specific listings. TRANSPORT Public transport %800 19 18 17; www.dpp.cz single/24-hour ticket 26/100Kč AAA Radio Taxi %14014 Airport Cars %220 113 892 City Taxi %257 257 257 ProfiTaxi %14015 Taxis are best ordered by phone. PHRASES Hello. Goodbye. Yes/No. Please/Excuse me. Thank you. Sorry. CONVERSIONS 1in = 2.54cm 1cm = 0.39in 1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd 1ft = 0.3m 1km = 0.62 miles 1 mile = 1.6km 1kg = 2.2lb 1lb = 0.45kg 1g = 0.04oz 1oz = 28g 1 imperial gallon = 4.55L 1L = 0.26 US gallons 1 US gallon = 3.8L 1L = 0.22 imperial gallons 9TH EDITION Published Nov 2010 First Published Jun 1994 Dobrý den./ahoj. (pol/inf) Na shledanou./čau. (pol/inf) Ano./Ne. Prosím. Děkuji. Promiňte. USA $18.99 UK 12.99
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